Circular saws tend to stop cutting when they reach hard materials like metal or concrete. Metal can be brutal to cut because of its high resistance to heat which means it will not get hot enough for the blade to melt the metal. In the case of concrete, the blade just won’t cut through it. I mentioned some reasons below:
Four Strong Reasons your Circular Saw not Cut
For not being cut through all the way, your best-performing circular saw has difficulties. I am describing crucial four facts among them:
- Blade diameter
- Dull blade
- Binding the blade
- Wrong blade
1. Blade Diameter is a Cause of not Cutting
For instance, on my 5-1/2 inch diameter circular saw, the blade is 1-1/2 inches wide. I’m sorry, what? 1-1/2 inches?! Are you serious? Well, guess what? So is my circular saw! If the diameter of your blade is 1-1/2” and the thickness of the material you are cutting is 3/4”, then you will need a blade with a diameter of 2-1/2”.
The actual depth of cut will be determined by distance from the centre of the blade to where it contacts the workpiece. When attaching the blade to the table, make sure the blade’s edge that makes contact with the workpiece is outside the circle. If it is inside the circle, you will be pushing instead of cutting.
What saw can cut how deep you can measure the measurement from Circular Saw Depth of Cut: How Deep Can a Circular Saw Cut?
2. A Dull Blade can Hamper to Cut
If your circular saw blade gets dull, quickly replace it. It is making your cut hampered. Dull blade causes binding and slippage, which inhibits the blade from making a clean cut. A dull blade is also more likely to leave a ragged edge which will cause nicks and splinters when you try to cut another board.
Most often, a dull or broken teeth blade is the problem. If your blade is sharp, test it by cutting a wood piece and seeing if the cut is smooth and clean. Dull blades become dull because they are dragging against the workpiece rather than cutting cleanly through it.
To make sure your blade is really sharp, you can use a little instrument called a “cutting board.” This is simply a piece of wood with a razor-edge coating on one side. Hold the blade against the cutting edge and push it in until it starts to cut. Then lift the blade and check to see how far it has cut. The blade is too dull if it has cut more than an 8-inch (about 3mm). If it has only cut an eighth of an inch or less, the blade is fine.
3. Circular Saw Blade Binding
Well, for one thing, your circular saw is probably set too high. By setting the cutting height too high, you force the blade to exert a lot of downward pressure on the material, which is actually stretching the wood fibers and causing the blade to bind. Lower the cutting height and try again. Here’s a useful little trick: If your saw doesn’t lower the height easily, try this: Use a piece of stiff cardboard as a wedge under the workpiece to force the table downward. Then adjust the height until the saw is just barely cutting the material.
Please don’t overdo it, though. You don’t want to make the blade work so hard that it snags or binds. Remember: A dull saw will almost always cause binding; a sharp saw will almost always cause the blade to overheat and dull faster. Keep your saw sharp! It will pay off in spades for your time and time again.
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4. Wrong Blade is Responsible for Bad Cut
Sometimes, people mistake taking the right blade to get a proper cut. The user has to understand that each blade is not capable of cutting each staff. There are different blades to cut different materials. So first, know things about your staff and be sure what type of blade is suitable for that material. When you need to cut hardwood, a thin kerf blade faces difficulty going through the wood. It can also pinch the wood; that’s why circular saw can be stopped. Depending on the material, there are individual blades, So you have to get the right blade for a fine cut.
Use a circular saw safely and reduce the possibility of happening an accident: Circular saw safety tips and how to avoid the odds?
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